Uganda is a different trip from the savannah safaris of Kenya and Tanzania: forest rather than open plains, and days built around tracking primates on foot. As in Tanzania, Dexter does not guide here himself. He plans the trip with you, travels with you and hands over to local partner guides he has known for years. The gorilla and chimpanzee treks themselves are led by Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers.
Most itineraries centre on Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, home to a large share of the world’s mountain gorillas, with Kibale Forest for chimpanzees and Queen Elizabeth National Park for savannah wildlife and boat trips on the Kazinga Channel.
Gorilla permits are limited and sell out for the busiest months, so this is the part of East Africa where planning early matters most.
The parks Dexter returns to most, and knows well enough to time around what the wildlife is doing this month.
Steep, ancient rainforest and home to a large share of the world's mountain gorillas. Treks are led by Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers; permits are limited.
Tropical forest with thirteen primate species, and Uganda's best-known place to track habituated chimpanzees on foot.
Savannah, crater lakes and the Kazinga Channel, where boat trips bring you close to hippo, buffalo and elephant. Ishasha is known for its tree-climbing lions.
Firmer forest trails and the most comfortable trekking. The busiest time for gorilla permits.
Another good trekking window: warm and mostly dry.
Muddier trails and heavier going, but gorillas can be tracked all year and permits are easier to find.
5 days Fly into the misty hills of south-west Uganda for four nights in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and two gorilla treks, the closest and most moving wildlife encounter in Africa. Permits included.
8 days Chimpanzees in Kibale Forest, tree-climbing lions and the Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth, then mountain gorillas in Bwindi. Uganda's great primate journey, with permits included.
Tell Dexter roughly when you'd like to go. He'll tell you how far ahead permits need booking and how Uganda fits with a Kenya safari.
It's in Nairobi Dexter replies usually within a day
